Before leaving a house empty for the season: shut off the main water supply and drain the lines, set the thermostat or humidistat for your climate, clear the fridge and trash, redirect mail, secure doors and windows, prep for storms, and arrange for someone — ideally a professional home-watch service — to check the house weekly.
Most of what goes wrong in an empty house — burst pipes, mold, break-ins, denied claims — traces back to a skipped item on this list. Work through it in your final week, and save the last two (water off, thermostat set) for the day you leave.
What should you do before leaving a house empty for months?
The full close-up checklist, grouped by system. Read every section once — the expensive mistakes hide in categories people assume don't apply to them.
Water
- Shut off the main water supply, then open faucets on the lowest and highest floors to drain the lines. (Why below — this is the highest-impact item.)
- Water heater: electric off at the breaker; gas to vacation mode or off. Drain the tank if the house won't be heated.
- Turn off supply lines to the washer, dishwasher, and ice maker — rubber hoses are common failure points.
- Exception: if a fire-sprinkler system or your insurer requires water service on, ask the insurer how to comply first.
Heat, cooling, and humidity
- Cold climates: leave the heat on. Consumer Reports recommends setting the thermostat no lower than 55°F to keep pipes in walls and floors from freezing. Open cabinet doors under sinks so warm air reaches the plumbing.
- Hot, humid climates (Florida, Gulf Coast): the enemy is mold, not ice. Keep the A/C around 77–80°F; if the house has a humidistat, a setting in the upper-50s percent relative humidity is commonly recommended to hold indoor humidity below the ~60% range where mold takes hold.
- Replace the HVAC filter, and consider a Wi-Fi thermostat or leak sensor so someone gets an alert if conditions drift.
Kitchen, trash, and perishables
- Empty the refrigerator of perishables; if turning it off, empty it completely and prop both doors open.
- Take out all trash, run the disposal one last time, and remove anything a pest would love — pet food, birdseed, flour.
Mail and deliveries
- USPS Hold Mail covers 3–30 days only; for a season-long absence, file a temporary change of address (15 days up to one year) instead.
- Pause newspapers and recurring deliveries — packages piling at the door announce an empty house.
Security and lights
- Lock every door and window, including the garage service door. Remove hidden spare keys.
- Put lamps on timers or smart plugs with a staggered evening schedule.
- Leave a key and alarm code with whoever will check the house, and give the alarm company their contact.
- Hold the vacation posts until you're back — social media is a broadcast to more than friends.
Storm prep (if your absence overlaps hurricane season)
- Atlantic hurricane season runs June 1 through November 30, peaking around September 10 (NOAA) — it overlaps almost every snowbird calendar.
- Stage shutters or panels for quick installation, and authorize a specific local person to put them up.
- Bring in patio furniture, grills, and anything else that becomes a projectile; trim trees back from the roof.
- Photograph every room and the exterior — it makes any future claim far easier.
Car, yard, and pool
- A stored car needs a battery tender, fuel stabilizer, and insurance that stays active while parked.
- Keep lawn, irrigation, and pool service running — an unkempt yard announces "nobody's home," and an untreated pool turns green in weeks. Ask the pool company to report problems, not just treat water.
Should you shut off the water?
Yes, in almost every case. Water is the most common way an empty house destroys itself. Insurance Information Institute data shows about 1 in 67 insured homes files a water-damage or freezing claim each year, averaging $15,400 (2019–2023). An occupied house notices a leak in hours; an empty one can let it run for weeks — the Triple-I puts burst-pipe repairs at $10,000 to $70,000 or more, depending on how long the water runs unnoticed.
Shutting the main valve and draining the lines removes almost all of that risk in ten minutes. If water must stay on (sprinkler system, insurer requirement), leak sensors plus frequent in-person checks are the fallback, not a substitute.
What does your insurance require while you're away?
Most departure checklists skip this part, and it's the one that turns a bad week into a disaster. Standard homeowners policies contain a vacancy or unoccupancy clause: according to the Insurance Information Institute, coverage is typically limited or excluded once a home sits unoccupied 30 to 60 consecutive days — often for exactly the perils an empty house faces most: water damage, theft, and vandalism.
Many insurers also condition winter water-damage coverage on someone physically checking the home — Snowbird Advisor notes most policies require regular checks, at frequencies ranging from every two or three days to weekly or bi-weekly. Requirements vary by company and state, so call your insurer before you leave: give your dates, ask exactly what the policy requires, and get the answer in writing.
Empty-house numbers worth knowing (2026)
- 30–60 days: typical unoccupancy window after which standard homeowners coverage is limited or excluded (Insurance Information Institute).
- 1 in 67 insured homes files a water-damage or freezing claim each year; average claim $15,400 (III, 2019–2023 data).
- $10,000–$70,000+: burst-pipe repair range, driven by how long the leak runs unnoticed (Triple-I).
- June 1 – November 30: Atlantic hurricane season, peaking around September 10 (NOAA).
- The 5 highest-impact close-up items: water off at the main, water heater off, thermostat/humidistat set for the climate, fridge cleared, weekly checks arranged.
Who should check the house — and how often?
Weekly is the professional norm for a closed-up home, and it matches or beats most insurer requirements. The real question is who does it.
| Friend, neighbor, or family | Professional home-watch service | |
|---|---|---|
| Cost | Free (plus goodwill) | Per-visit fee; see what home watch costs |
| What a visit covers | Whatever they think to look at | A consistent room-by-room checklist: plumbing, HVAC, electrical, roof/ceilings, pests, exterior, pool |
| Documentation | A text if something looks wrong | Dated, photo-backed report after every visit — proof for your insurer |
| Reliability | Skipped visits happen; nobody logs them | Scheduled cadence; missed issues are the business's reputation |
| When something's found | You troubleshoot by phone from 1,500 miles away | Operator flags it, coordinates the plumber, and re-checks |
A neighbor glancing at the front door is better than nothing — but it isn't documentation, and it isn't a trained eye on the water heater. A home-watch professional walks a defined inspection checklist on every visit, photographs what they find, and sends a written report the same day. Over a five-month absence, that stack of dated reports is both peace of mind and proof.
Whoever you choose, set it up before you leave: key handoff, alarm code, the insurer's required frequency, and what happens when something is wrong.
Where's the printable checklist?
You're looking at it. This page prints clean — navigation and promotional sections drop out automatically. Print it, stick it on the fridge, and check items off during your final week.
For home-watch operators: hand this page to your clients
If you run a home-watch business, this checklist is the conversation your clients are having every August. Send it with your pre-departure email, walk the close-up with them, and position your weekly report as the season-long answer to the question behind every item above: is the house okay? A branded, photo-backed visit report in the owner's inbox every week beats any brochure — and it's the documentation their insurer wants to see.
Frequently asked questions
Is it OK to leave a house empty for 6 months?
Physically, yes — houses tolerate vacancy when water is off, climate control is set, and someone checks regularly. The bigger risk is contractual: most policies limit coverage after 30–60 days unoccupied, so notify your insurer and meet their check-in requirements.
Should I leave the heat on in an empty house in winter?
Yes. No heat risks frozen pipes, ice dams, and cracked fixtures. Around 55°F is the commonly recommended floor; go higher if pipe runs are poorly insulated, and open cabinet doors under sinks.
Should I turn off the water heater when away for the winter?
Yes — once the main supply is off, the tank should not keep heating. Switch electric units off at the breaker; set gas units to vacation mode or off. Drain the tank if the house will be unheated.
How often should an empty house be checked?
Weekly is the professional standard for a closed-up seasonal home. Some insurers require more frequent visits — confirm your policy's requirement and make sure each visit is documented.
Do I need to tell my insurance company I'm leaving for the winter?
Yes. An extended absence can trigger vacancy limits on a standard policy. Call before you leave, give your dates, ask what checks or endorsements are required, and get it in writing — requirements vary by insurer and state.
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